Article about Chernivtsi / Czernowitz, a city in south-western Ukraine, in the Nov. – Dec. 2022 issue of the PN Review. I went there in September to talk to those in the city who have for decades been working to restore the memory of the extraordinary writers who emerged there in the early / mid-twentieth century. Paul Celan is only the most famous of them. He addressed the fear of nuclear war in the late Fifties and early Sixties, in terms that felt worth revisiting in the present crisis.